[R65/7] Panne allumage sur R65 de 1981 - Capteur effet Hall (Résolu)

the thing a écrit:Condensateur?? nan?....

pockaman a écrit:

the thing a écrit:Condensateur?? nan?....

Y a pu de condensateur, en 1981, mon Fred, c'est fini, ça, trop vieux, pas assez fiable...

capitaine a écrit:Je vous tiens au courant demain.

oggy a écrit:
Donc sur ton module à part la partie qui va direct au faisceau pour alimenter le module et le fil de retour pour la bobine, tu dois avoir un qui est relié à la masse, un autre au 12, et le dernier qui fait ton retour info capteur, comme je connais pas ces allumages électroniques je peux pas te dire lesquels, c'est à toi de tester.

The tester
Preamble

The Hall Effect Vane Sensor is a fairly complex component. One of the results of this is that the tester can be very simple. By far the most difficult part is finding the connector to allow it to connect to the ‘Bean Can’ wire. Here is the schematic:-


Parts list:

1. Box suitable for the project. (I used a small Black plastic box from Maplin Ltd, which includes a battery compartment).

2. Battery Connector.

3. 9 volt Battery

4. Switch

5. Resistor Ik Ohm miniature type

6. LED

7. Miniature Push Button

8. Length of 3 core wire

9. Sundry wire

10. 3 pin plug suitable to connect to the ‘Bean Can’ connector. This part is critical and is described as a ‘Junior-Timer-Housing’. You need to buy the housing, the terminals and the seal separately. In the UK, they can be obtained from Vehicle Wiring Products of Ilkeston Derbyshire.

It’s worth mentioning that the switch and the test button are not strictly necessary… there is no current drain when the unit is not in use. I also used a two pole switch because that was the most suitable one I could find. A single pole switch would b equally as good.

I’m not going to give detailed building instructions, this project is so simple that they aren’t necessary. Here is a picture of the finished article:




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The Hall Effect Vane Switch

The Hall Vane Effect switch used on Post ’80 machines is a Honeywell 2AV54. It is a reasonably reliable device and should last for the life of the machine, however, they can fail and are vulnerable to damage if they are wrongly connected or subjected to physical or electric misuse.

The component is, in actuality, a complex device consisting, not only of a Hall Effect Sensor but also a voltage regulator, an Amplifier and an electromagnet. For the technically minded, I would recommend the Honeywell Electronics website at http://www.honeywell.com/ where the full technical specification can be downloaded. For those of a less technical ‘bent’, all you need to know is that the black lead is a ground, the red lead requires a positive voltage and that the resistance of the green lead to ground varies from very high to almost zero dependant on whether there is a metal vane in the slot between the electromagnet and the Hall Effect Sensor. This gap is directly in front of the metal wedge shape on the following picture.




Instructions for use


The vane switch tester is very simple to use. I don’t intend to go into the procedure for removing the vehicle front cover or removing the vane Bean Can from the bike. That’s covered thoroughly enough in the various manuals. Suffice it to say that you need to have access to the connector between the Bean Can and the ignition module. This is normally located behind the front cover, above the alternator.

Testing the unit

Simply switch the unit on and depress the ‘Test’ Button. If the red LED comes on, the unit is ready for use.

N.B. this does not test the plug or the wiring to it, just the battery and the internal wiring.

TESTING a vane switch

This can be done with the ‘Bean Can’, either attached to the machine or removed from it. Simply connect the tester to the ‘Bean Can’, switch it on and turn the coupling (Or the engine if you haven’t removed it) through several revolutions. You should see the LED go on and off twice with each revolution of the coupling. If it stays on constantly or goes off and stays off, the Sensor is bust. It is not necessary to have the vehicle ignition switched on to carry out this test.

TIMING

To use the tester as a timing light, simply connect it to the Bean Can. For this, the Bean Can must be on the bike. Rotate the crankshaft by hand until the ‘S’ mark appears in the timing hole lined up with the timing mark on the edge of the hole. Loosen the screws that hold the bean can in place, then rotate the bean can till the point where the lamp changes. Re-tighten the screws. If this is done carefully, it will set the timing very close to the ideal setting but I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT THE TIMING IS CHECKED USING A STROBE LAMP.

flatourien a écrit:J'avions point tilté sur l'année 81....